In November 2010 my dad was diagnosed with lung cancer. Given months to live, he chose a risky surgery with no guarentees. He lived over two years cancer free and enjoyed carving and golf throughout that time. He also taught me to carve and use a lathe, which I've enjoyed ever since. The little white ball, however, remains elusive. My Tickled to Death series was inspired by him and his lovable dog, Bogie.
No matter what job I've tackled, music has always allowed me to disappear into the work. In the police academy, I had a 'cassette tape' ;) titled Situational Inspirationals. It got me through the testing with themes like Rockie. I work out to music and write with IZ and Bag of Toys playing on my iPod. It helps take me back to the islands, where this goofy foot may still need a little help with the launch, but will never let go of the wave!
Surfing is one of those sports you either love or hate. I love it. I'm not good at it, and never hope to be. But to experience the freedom on a wave is the ultimate high for me. Even when I end up dry-heaving salt water on the beach when I'm done. It doesn't get any better than that! My hat's off to the men and women who make it look easy.